The recently announced 11376 Ford® Model T® from LEGO® Icons depicts Henry Ford’s mass-produced automobile that revolutionised transportation.
With a clutch of new moulds, a fleet of recolours and a single new printed element, there's lots for us to explore in the Model T set, so let's open the bonnet and take a peek inside.
We were given this product early by The LEGO Group; the author's opinions are their own.
This article contains affiliate links to LEGO.com; we may get a small commission if you purchase.
11376 Ford® Model T®
- Release date: 1 March 2026, pre-order available now from the links below
- Pieces: 1060
Price and direct link to pre-order:
Other countries click here
Background
The Ford Model T is an automobile that was produced by the Ford Motor Company from 1 October 1908 until 26 May 1927. Henry Ford wanted the Model T to be affordable, simple to operate, and durable. The LEGO set appears to be based on a 1913 Model T Roadster, although Model T were known for their ability to be customised.
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| © Ford Motor Company |
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Ford is most credited with the thoughtfulness and efficiency of his company’s production assembly line. By transitioning to a “moving” assembly line, Ford was able to cut the production line time down by nearly 10 hours, which in turn led to the cars themselves being more affordable, resulting in higher sales.
The Model T was one of the first mass production vehicles, allowing Ford to achieve his aim of manufacturing the universal car. It seems appropriate to label this an iconic vehicle.
New moulds
There are four new moulds in the set, if we include the fabric cloth.
Tyre 75 x 13 (7860)
- 4x Tyre 75 x 13 in White (6575457 | 7860)
Eight-
module wide round elements can fit inside the tyre comfortably; two of the same element back to back will wedge in and stay put:
Wheel 56 x13 with Spokes (7877)
There are two other Ø56mm wheel rims in the LEGO inventory but with a much deeper rim.

- 4x Wheel 56mm D. x 13 mm in Black (6575789 | 7877)
The complete wheel and tyre assembly looks great. Not all Model T's had white tyres, and many had brass spokes in the wheels, but this classic combination looks ideal on the model.
Windscreen 9 x 5 with Double Curved Bar (115551)
- 2x Windscreen 9 x 5 in Trans-Clear with Double Curved Bar in Black (6584086 | 115551)
The windscreen has two 3.18mm transparent bars at either end of the half-plate thick glass portion. The two transparent bars are 9 modules apart.
The 90 degree curve matches other curves in the LEGO® System, for example:
- Inner curve of the Brick Arch 1 x 3 x 1 2/3 Curved Top (5843), shown in orange.
- Inner curve of Plate Round 3 x 3 with 2 x 2 cutout (68568) ,shown in tan.
- Plate Round Corner 2 x 2 with 1 x 1 Cutout (79491), shown in white.
- Brick Curved 2 x 2 x 1 Curved Top, Corner (5846), shown in bright light orange.
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Three sides are dual moulded with a black 3.18mm bar border. You can also attach clips on the rounded corners and they stay in place, but I expect it isn't a legal connection.
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When Tom first saw these new windscreen elements, he suggested sci-fi saloon doors as a potential use. One side needs to be offset to make the doors meet in the centre so I used a jumper plate. I can definitely see this idea working.
Cloth, Soft Top (6586353)
- 1x Cloth, Soft Top in Black (6586353)
The soft top is made of a starched fabric and comes pre-folded and pressed in its own little envelope with all the folds correctly maintained. It's a very stiff material and it is prone to creasing when you are attaching it – especially if you try to coax the soft top roof down.
Recolours
- 2x Brick Curved 2 x 4 x 1 in Dark Bluish Gray (6600112 | 5842)
- 2x Brick Arch 1 x 3 in Reddish Brown (6600113 | 4490)
- 9x Brick Curved 2 x 4 x 1 in Black (6587076 | 5842)
- 2x Brick Curved 2 x 2 x 1 Curved Top, Corner in Black (6592550 | 5846)
- 2x Slope 30° 1 x 4 x 2/3 in Black (6601521 | 7835)
- 2x Slope Curved 1 x 2 Inverted with 1 x 1 Cutouts in Black (6600029 | 5847)
Let's take a quick look at that last one...
Slope Curved 1 x 2 Inverted with 1 x 1 Cutouts (5847)
- 2x Slope Curved 1 x 2 Inverted with 1 x 1 Cutouts in Black (6600029 | 5847)
It is just a one-module wide version of the Slope Curved 2 x 2 Inverted with 1 x 2 Cutouts (
1750), allowing the curve to be placed in a smaller space.
New prints
- 1x Tile 1 x 2 with print in Pearl Gold (6615520)
The typeface used is unique to Ford. Childe Harold Wills designed the Ford logo and was also part of the engineering team behind the Ford Model T itself. Wills used his grandfather’s stencil set, which was based on the style of writing taught in schools when Ford was a child, so it reflects Ford's handwriting too.
- 4x +1 spare Tile 1 x 1 with Groove with Metallic Gold print in Pearl Gold (6576385)
Rare elements
Coming in one other set currently are:
In two sets:
- 2 x Brick Round Corner, Curved 2 x 2 x 1 2/3 Quarter Dome with 1 Cutout in Black (6552467 | 5906)
- 2 x Slope 45° 2 x 4 with 2/3 Inverted Cutout and no Studs in Black (6567221 | 5540)
- 1 x Tile Round 1 x 1 with Large Black Dot print in Pearl Gold (6511448)
The build
As expected, the building process starts with the chassis. Immediately, the newly recoloured black 2 x 4 x 1 curved bricks (
5842) are placed to line each side of the vehicle above running boards.
The engine sits in the front and, since the Model T was a rear-wheel drive, power is transmitted through a driveshaft. This is represented in the LEGO model but it is not connected, and simply ends by floating behind the dark blue grey 2x2 inverted slope you can see in the centre of the underside.
One of the fun play features is positioned early on in the build but it is not completed until later. The crank handle slots into the front, but the red rubber band fan belt will remain unconnected until the engine is built.
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Interestingly, the fuel tank sits under the driver's seat in the Model T; a slightly disturbing position in my mind as I always imagine the fuel tank to be a potential source of fire and therefore an explosive risk in a vehicle of any kind.
In the actual Model T, the seat was hinged to allow access to the tank for refuelling, but in the LEGO model, the seat connects into place. Thankfully no fuel is required to drive the LEGO version.
The rear fenders are built from plates, tiles and the 1 x 5 x 3 1/3 arch brick (
5845) . In the actual Model T, the seat was made from leather with a horsehair stuffing for comfort. The pattern of 1x1 tooth tiles (
35399) in the LEGO model depicts the typical leather pattern on earlier Model Ts.
The engine of the Model T had four spark plugs, but there was no battery, since hand-cranking would generate enough current for starting. The inline four cylinder engine could produce 20 horsepower with an impressive top speed of 42mph.
With the engine in position, a black hockey stick (
64000) is added to represent the cylinder head. The red rubber band is connected to the fan which means the crank handle rotates the fan belt and, in turn, the fan in a most pleasing manner. I demonstrate this in the play function section below, but it's actually hard to see this once the car is completed as the fan sits under the bonnet of course.
The opening mechanism for the bonnet uses two bars with droid arms connected. I'll address one of the techniques used here later. These lift the bonnet sideways out and away to allow the engine to be seen. The gap is enough to see the engine but its not very easy to see the fan rotating as it sits close to the radiator, somewhat hidden from view. It's still a lovely little detail.
There's no new moulds for the fenders as these ones are all built from plates and tiles. There's some nice angles with bars and clips used to get the shape of the fenders.
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Many of the details from the original vehicle are captured in the LEGO model. On the right, the small carbide generator can be seen on the running board – this was used to power the headlights. The horn uses a pearl gold s
extant (30154) to good effect.
A quick note: apologies as I knocked the right light off when taking a photo of the underside and when I popped it back on, I accidentally place it incorrectly twisted by 90 degrees. Both should have the 1x1 studs in pearl gold on the top and bottom of the lights.
The two forks are the control levers: the spark timing on the left and the throttle on the right.
The soft top frame has three sections which are then covered with the new soft top cloth. It's a little bit fiddly and the frame likes to fold together when the stiff material is attached.
Illegal technique
During the construction of the bars to hold the opening mechanism for the bonnet, an interesting decision was made to use adjacent headlight bricks in a position that is 'illegal' by The LEGO Group's own standards as it stresses the elements.
The horizontal bars extend from a 1x2 brick with two studs on one side (
11211) to attach into the rear of two 1x1 headlight bricks (
4070) within the steering block. Since the side stud on the headlight brick extends out beyond the rest of the vertical face of the brick, it means that there's not enough space for them in this position when both the top and bottom are also connected.
This is the connection used, and you can see that the headlight brick puts the elements under stress as it is pushing into the brick in front and causing a gap to form. Perhaps this will be addressed and altered upon release of the set but it was surprising to see as there are other legal solutions to connect the bars at each end without resorting to this technique.
Play features
There are six main play features in the Model T.
Opening bonnet
The bonnet opens up to allow the engine to be seen and if you get your viewing angle right, you can also see the fan belt and fan turning.
Crank start

The crank start is a fun play feature that is best enjoyed during the building process as it's tricky to see once the bonnet is on. I've created this little animation of the crank turning the fan belt and the fan, as it's satisfying to play with.
Steering
The steering wheel functions to turn the front wheels. The steering wheel has an axle that is connected to the front wheels via a Technic 1 x 8 link (
5996). It is definitely not power steering, but it's a welcome addition to the play features.
Where is the 1x1 Pearl Gold Tile recolour? It's an incredibly exciting one and I don't see it here :)
ReplyDeleteFirst recolour mentioned in the Recoliur section.
DeleteQuite surprising that it took until 2026 to get pearl gold 1x1 tile, isn't it? Especially considering that we've had metallic gold 1x1 tile since 2019. I guess that filled the niche for most uses until now, but it's odd that we got full metallic seven years before pearl, as usually it's the other way around.
DeleteSadly it's actually printed, New Elementary forgot to mention that.
DeleteFixed thanks.
DeleteHa, so it is. So they're pearl gold, but with a further gold print? Very unusual. Well, they look pretty good regardless. This might mean we could get proper unprinted pearl gold 1x1 tiles soon. After all, they have to start out that way.
DeleteQuite surprising that such a clearly illegal technique would make it all the way to production of an official set like this. Why the designer didn't just use a 1x2 Technic brick with 2 holes (part 32000) is beyond me. While that solution would technically introduce a very tiny 0.12 mm vertical offset, as Technic holes are ever so slightly higher than SNOT stud position, surely this would create entirely negligible stress over the long 8L distance that those bars run. It would certainly be many times better a solution than the decidedly problematic front-to-back headlights that were employed instead.
ReplyDeleteBut for what should be a properly legal solution, you could simply turn those two headlight bricks around, where they will meet flush back-to-back, and slap a bottle topper piece (part 31561) on each SNOT stud. Then, switch out the double-studded 2L bar pieces with lightsaber hilts (part 64567) which are half a plate shorter, allowing just enough room for the plate-thick bottle topper inset half a plate into the front of the headlight brick.
Finally, you could simply use a different arrangement of bars to bridge that 8L distance, and connect a free bar end straight into the front of that same headlight brick. Swapping out the 6L bar for a pair of 3L bars (or, alternatively, a 4L and a 2L, which I think looks a little cooler) with the double-studded 2L bar connecting them in the middle, fits perfectly.
Well as you said yourself, the slight vertical offset makes it as much of an illegal technique by Lego's standards. But there are definitely proper ways to make this.
DeleteInterestingly enough other brands have parts for this, but one is kind of a 1x1 brick version of the piece of resistance, except that Wange made the square hole aligned JUST LIKE Lego's technic bricks, not like bracket bricks like it should have been. I don't know if they made their entire system like that though.
Indeed, the Technic brick solution would be technically (heh) illegal. However, as I said, over the long 8L distance of the bars, the stress would be entirely negligible. People often forget that stress is an inherent part of the Lego system: it's how the clutch power of studs work! So, all that really matters is whether such stress may cause irreversible damage to the pieces, and I highly doubt this would. And it's certainly far better than cramming together two pieces incompatibly, producing obvious stress on adjacent elements. That said, yes, there are other, fully legal ways to do this.
DeleteEither of my extra-bar solutions above would work without any issues, and even the droid arms will still be able to attach in the same places (I checked, and none of the stops or other features get in the way at those points). I think the 4L + 2L option looks great, with the 2L at the headlight side. You could also replace that pair of headlights with a 1x2 SNOT brick to get a touch of extra bar insertion, while saving a piece. And, as someone pointed out, the actual "Piece of Resistance" would work if they were to produce it again; providing that you can excavate enough space for it to fit, which it appears you can.
Ultimately, though, it may well be possible to simply adjust the build to bring the pair of headlight bricks into alignment, so that the side-stud of one meets up with the side-antistud of the other, thus restoring legality. I'm not sure how critical it is to have that jumpered detail on the dash precisely where it is, or whether the bars absolutely must exit above the engine precisely where they do, but it's likely that one of the two could be lowered or raised, respectively, by one plate. I agree with Bfa below that this design error was likely due to a late change that forced a vertical shift of one of the headlight bricks, and the designer probably had them legally aligned to start. This is just too much of a rookie mistake for a professional Lego designer to have made right off the bat.
Seems to me the simplest approach to fix this illegal technique is to simply flip the whole sub-assembly 180° so the 1x2 snot brick is at the back of the engine bay next to the dashboard Erling bricks, and the problematic overlapping headlamp bricks are now at the front - all bricks and bars then occupy the same positions - it just inverts where the studs and anti-studs are so there's no interference. Colours would need to be changed, but it's not like they don't make snot bricks in grey or erling bricks in black. How is this not the out of the box solutions is anyone's guess
Deletethey definitely could have used a recolor of the "Piece of Resistance" element in lieu of the illegal headlight brick technique.
ReplyDeleteYes, that piece (15444) would definitely work well! It hasn't been produced since 2015, but it wouldn't be the first time that a piece returned after a decade or so hiatus.
DeleteThe Piece is two bricks tall with the antistud one plate further down than it is on a headlight brick, so it would have to start a plate higher and thus a pair of them would swallow up the 1x2 plate above as well as the two plates below, but that all seems quite doable.
On that note, it would be super helpful if Lego were to make more antistud SNOT pieces. As it is, we have precious few in our Lego parts arsenal. I can't tell you how many times I've run into the need for one, and was forced to redirect to a completely different (and often much less ideal) solution.
lol, that is absolutely not how you open the hood of a Model T.
ReplyDeleteGiven that the headlight bricks are abutting another set of headlight bricks, just offset by one plate, my bet is the intent was to have them lined up in such a way that the antistuds on the back of the other ones would make room for the studs on the bar holder ones. Maybe a late design tweak came in to move one or the other up or down to make room for something or to make it more "accurate", compromising the solution. Seems like at least there's plate room below the ones with the jumper so that it can be shifted down for anyone who wants to?
ReplyDeleteYou're just showing off with your dark red "Plate Special Round 8 x 8 with 2 x 2 Center Studs" (6177). Had me excited they were back. Alas, no ☹
ReplyDeleteHa! I was wondering if anyone would notice it 😆
DeleteDumb question: why are technic wheel rims in mm rather than LDUs?
ReplyDeleteMany tires specifically have the actual rim/tire measurements in millimeters molded into their surface, making identification by those measurements much easier at a glance. Also, most wheels/tires are not an exact number of LDU in diameter—they're often slightly bigger or smaller, making millimeters a more precise and accurate way to measure them.
DeleteThose illegally placed headlight bricks bother me. They could have easily used a single "1x2 brick with technic holes" (32000) instead. While not a beautiful connection, it's considered legal by TLG.
ReplyDeleteThere is a 1x1 brick with technic hole in reddish brown, placed right next to the illegal headlight bricks that is used as a hole. And after looking up images of the Model T's engine bay, that hole is supposed to be there, although I couldn't really tell you why.
My guess is that TLG had originally meant to use the 1x2 brick with technic holes instead of those two headlight bricks. Perhaps through user testing they realized that people were putting the "hilt smooth extended" (66909) into the wrong technic hole, which probably still sort of worked but ended up with a crooked build.
Thanks for this review! I'm curious what you think of it proportion-wise compared to the real vehicle, to my eye it almost looks like it could have been 1 or 2 studs wider?
ReplyDeleteVery small note, but Model T wheel spokes were never brass. The wheels these represent are wooden-spoked, which could be had painted body color, black, or plain varnished wood depending on year and how the owner ordered it.
Slight error, the new rims are 56 mm, not 75 mm like the other motorcycle wheels.
ReplyDeleteThanks.
DeleteThe question that's been bothering me the most is:
ReplyDeletewill this Ford model fit the Technic figures?
I really want to know! Please!
Please show me how the Technic figure (NOT the standard minifigure) fits inside the car's cabin! I beg you!
Why can't anyone show me a Technic figure inside a Ford's cab? I'm so looking forward to it...
because it is too small and not to scale.
Deletewho «it is too small and not to scale» ?
DeleteTechnic dude is too small and looks silly in the car...
Delete